People and Techniques: episode 3, ABS studs
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People and techniques: Goretti’s hands
Here’s a new episode of our ‘People and Techniques’ series, the project that explores Goretti’s distinctive techniques through the work of the people who contribute to their realisation every day. In every episode we describe in detail a production process by exploring its history, the skills required and the role it plays in our industry.
After telling you everything about the hotfix technique and embroidery and sewing, now it’s time to dive into the world of ABS studs, applications that combine practicality, customisation and high aesthetic value thanks to innovative components and the distinctive craftsmanship of all our production processes.
ABS studs: lightness, versatility and design
ABS studs are a light and flexible alternative to metal studs: they provide the same aesthetic result with less weight. They can be customised with a wide range of finishes, from galvanic tones to pastel colours, to iridescent, fluorescent or transparent effects.
Thanks to their structure, they can be easily applied on different materials to form original shapes, thus opening up a whole range of new creative possibilities. Their versatile nature leads to developing complex compositions, thus enriching accessories and garments with original and innovative details.
From design to application: the process in four steps
Despite their apparent simplicity, ABS studs require a precise and meticulous application process, where every step is essential to obtain an aesthetically and functionally perfect result. Every stud is made up of two elements: the ornamental head and the rivet, through which the stud can be fixed on the material. The process consists of the three following steps:
1. Design and punching: our team of pattern makers accurately designs the studs’ positions. The material is then punched using a laser cut to ensure the highest precision.
2. Rivet placing: the rivet is positioned manually in the holes to make sure it perfectly adheres to the material.
3. Fixing with stud setter: with a hammer and a stud setter, every component is securely attached, thus obtaining a resistant and uniform application.
4. Quality check: every piece is thoroughly checked to make sure that the studs are perfectly positioned and do not have any flaws.
Thanks to this method, we can ensure high-quality and durable applications that can enhance any creation with a unique touch of style.
BEHIND THE STUDS: INTERVIEW WITH FILIPPO AND SABRINA
We met two members of our team to learn more about the work behind the application of ABS studs. Filippo, pattern maker, and Sabrina, specialised operator, shared their experience with us.
Filippo
Modellista
What’s your job at Goretti?
‘I work in the style studio, where we create sets of samples for trade fairs such as Lineapelle, Milano Unica and Première Vision. We follow the research on trends and techniques through specialised platforms such as WGSN, and develop creative proposals for our customers. Personally, I also take care of the special projects and the sets of samples we develop in collaboration with the other companies of the MinervaHub group’.
What’s the secret to creating an outstanding application just by using ABS components?
‘Everything starts from an in-depth trend search, from shapes to finishes. The creative process starts with handmade sketches, which are then coloured to immediately define the colour combinations. In some cases, for more complex structures, we immediately create the digital design to optimise the process.’
Is there an effect of ABS components that you particularly like?
‘I find the pearl effects fascinating, both in the warm tones, like nacre, and in the cold ones, like silver pearl.’
What three adjectives would you use to describe Sabrina?
‘Extremely collaborative, reliable and fun.’
Sabrina
Team Produzione
What’s your job at Goretti?
‘I mainly deal with the application of ABS studs on different materials.’
Have you always worked on this technique?
‘Pretty much. I’ve worked in different departments only on rare occasions.’
What is most satisfying in seeing an ABS application completed?
‘Currently, I mainly deal with production, so I often work repeatedly on the same garments and I can rarely take a look at the final product. However, in the past I worked a lot on samples and special projects, many of which have been worn by celebrities. Seeing these products on the big screen is always very satisfying!’
What three adjectives would you use to describe Filippo?
‘Creative, helpful, very polite.’
Mabel: a landmark in the production of ABS studs
To create ABS studs, Goretti relies on the expertise of Mabel, a historic company based in Chiuduno (in the province of Bergamo, Lombardy), that specialises in the processing of plastic components and finished small-sized jewellery.
Founded in the historic ‘Valle dei bottoni’ (Valley of buttons) in the mid-50s, Mabel is a landmark in the field, with 100% Italian products that enables us to develop ABS studs that are customisable in shape, colour and finish.
Thanks to this collaboration, we are able to work in a timely and efficient way, thus reducing the samples’ development time and creating innovative solutions in synergy with our style studio Èstro Lab.
Creativity and innovation: a constantly evolving process
The production of ABS studs is a complex process that combines technical expertise, aesthetic research and constant innovation.
Every season, our team develops new shapes and effects to enrich our collections and meet the increasingly sophisticated demands of the fashion industry. Thanks to the collaboration between our technical department and Èstro Lab, we can explore new design opportunities, by using entirely new components and finishes.
Discover the latest creations in our catalogue
If you want to know how ABS studs can enhance your creations, contact us to explore all our customisation options.
