‘Past-Present-Future’, third chapter: Claw stud application over time
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Innovating and being creative, by drawing on the experience gained over time, also means being able to reinvent traditional techniques by exploring new ways to implement established methods. By doing so, we can effectively meet the ever-changing requirements of the fashion industry.
It’s with that spirit that we continue our newsletter series titled ‘Past-Present-Future’, a journey where we tell you how time and technological developments have partially (yet not entirely) changed Goretti’s handicraft work.
If you missed the previous episodes:
‘Past, Present and Future’: cutting techniques through time
‘Past, Present, and Future’: raw materials and interconnection
PAST - PRESENT - FUTURE
In the fashion industry, which is by definition an ever-changing field, research and experimentation are crucial to create cutting-edge collections. Therefore, speed and meticulous precision become essential qualities.
Production is increasingly dynamic and innovative, and the work pace increases as a result of constant requests and stimuli.
Using automatic machines is essential to increase our productivity. Thanks to their crucial contribution we can achieve results that would be unattainable with manual work alone.
In this chapter we would like to tell you how we revolutionised claw stud application, thus reaching new levels of production efficiency and precision, while still using semi-automatic machines for special projects or small batches.
Claw studs and rhinestones consist of two elements: the external part, visible and ornamental, which is available in different shapes and colours, and the back clasp, which attaches to the support and securely holds the stud in place.
Together with rivet trims, claw trims are among the techniques that Goretti has been applying ever since the early years of its existence.
To be able to offer these consolidated techniques, the company currently has 24 semi-automatic and 5 automatic studding machines at its disposal. Although they both require the presence of an operator, semi-automatic and automatic studding machines present major differences.
In both cases it’s the expertise and professionalism of the operators that make the difference. Every employee in the department is trained to operate on both machine types, thus making it easier to manage production and sampling requests. That’s how we are able to best carry out the tasks we are entrusted with.
Past and present: SEMI-AUTOMATIC STUDDING MACHINES
Semi-automatic studding machines always require the action of an operator, since they can only be activated through a pedal. Once the work station is ready, the support is placed under the pointer and, using the viewfinder of a laser, the stud is applied based on the underlying pattern. Today, semi-automatic machines are still the fastest and most flexible option to create limited numbers of samples.
Present and future: AUTOMATIC STUDDING MACHINES
Today, Goretti can rely on Sagitta automatic studding machines, which revolutionised claw stud application, enabling the company to achieve new levels of efficiency and precision. Some of its main features include: a robust bridge structure, a retractable table to allow easy mechanical adjustments and the possibility to work simultaneously on more shapes.
To create and follow the drawing pattern, a positioning template is needed to identify the volume of the support and put it correctly in place. This ensures a complete and precise positioning of claw studs. Therefore, it’s essential to rely on a technical drawing for reference and on a software programme that allows us to see the foreseen movement.
Once these two steps (technical drawing and visualisation of the movement) are completed as set up by the pattern department, the operator checks the relevant head, activates the machine and oversees its work. So, after the initial set-up and preparation, the process is carried out completely autonomously by the Sagitta machine.
Are you interested in reading more stories from our time machine?
Would you like to continue discovering the Present, Past and Future of fashion techniques? Keep reading our newsletters! We’ll continue talking about technology and specialised skills.
In the meantime, you can contact our sales department to set an appointment and take a first-hand look at claw studs and rhinestones and how they can be applied on different items.
